For most home house owners, there is nothing more annoying than cracks or injury to their drywall. Screw in two picket boards behind the drywall, one at the prime and one on the backside of the opening. Reduce a bit of drywall right into a sq. shape that’s 2 inches larger in width and height than the area to be repaired. Let dry, then add a 3rd coat to smooth any remaining uneven areas.
A method is to bisect the undamaged piece of drywall on the stud, so half the stud is uncovered, then butt the undamaged and new drywall collectively on that stud. To feather the sting, improve stress and angle on the drywall knife as you attain the outer edges of the patch area to minimize, or skinny, the joint compound on the drywall.
All it’s good to get the ceiling back into good condition is a sheet of drywall and some instruments discovered on the native hardware store or house center. For small holes, like those created by a doorknob, a patch package could also be used. Then apply a barely wider second coat of plaster and flatten it out with the blade of the paint scraper.
Set up wooden cleats against the studs on either side of the opening to assist the new drywall’s vertical edges (image 1). Use scrap wood such as 1×2 furring for smaller repairs; in case you are changing a large sheet of drywall, reinforce the opening with 2×3 lumber.
Use drywall screws about each 8 to 12 inches to connect the drywall to the studs. When a crack seems, it’s often on a seam where two drywall sheets meet, and it’s easily fixed. For holes as much as about six inches across, a variety of drywall patch kits are available.